April 2014 is a year for adventure. We have moved to Brisbane a year ago, finally got settled in and needed a distraction from work. This distraction came in the form of a 6 week travel plan to Nepal.We have been to Nepal previously, this time it was different as we went to see the mighty mountains.
Our initial plan was to do a circuit which compromised of Everest base camp and Gokyo.. But we ended up doing only the Gokyo circuit.
If you have time you rather do both as the combination of both treks would ensure you cover the majority of Sagarmatha national park. However if you are short of time and also shit scared of heights i would suggest doing the Gokyo trail. If you are scared of heights, by this i mean just fear not extreme fear.. you will surely be able to do the trail. There are some places especially the bridges and unstable rocks at passes that give you cold feet but if you have great support it is possible to keep moving : )
I suggest if you are fit enough you will be able to carry your bag and you do not need a porter. It helps if you carry less junk, bare minimum is a must. Carrying a heavy backpack on an incline or a downward slope does not make you a happy person.
You really do not need a guide to show you the way especially during tourist season (Everest base camp trail ,be ready to walk behind people : ( so we choose Gokyo, less number of tourist). I can understand everyone wanting to tick Base camp of the bucket list. Nepalis are more than happy to help and the trail is well marked, this trek can definitely be carried out without a tour company.
If you are attempting to do the trail with the guide and porter then have some consideration about the porter who is carrying your stuff and carry less. You really do not need 1 liter of moisturizing creme, or 2 down jackets or whatever it is that you stuff in a backpack of 25 kgs per person. like you are going for a max of somewhere between 10 - 12 days maybe, seriously 25 kgs ????. Most of the stuff can be left in Kathmandu in your hotel.
If you are like us doing this by yourself, buy a detailed map of Gokyo or Everest base camp trail. They retail at around 400 rupees at Kathmandu. This gives you an indication on how much you will be ascending or descending and also time. The overall map is not very clear and confusing at some points.
Now with time issue if your are like my hubby, wanting to know how long to the next town BEWAREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
1 Nepali hour was 2 hours for us. Yes they will say slow slow but nooooooo its flyinggg Nepali and walking Indians(in our case)...Also the map times were not matching our time. Meaning we were crawling... but hey the "Selfie" and "Pee-Pee" breaks have to be added to the time..
Also buy your tickets at Namche on your way up or call the agency before getting to Namche, find out what is the price in Kathmandu and then at Namche you can Bargain. It saves you booking then rescheduling flights. Plus you have a good judgment on how many days it will take you to get back to Lukla. - normally a day.
We started the trail at Jiri to Namche then to Gokyo via Phortse Thenga and back down to Namche via Renjola Pass and then fly out to Lukla. We stayed at Namche and Dhole for 1 acclimatizing day each and stayed at Gokyo for 2 days. My hubby climbed Gokyo Ri and we both went to the fourth lake on the second day. I have not mentioned the other places we stopped at as it is totally up to your pace..
From Namche onward most of all lodges you stay at will have a fire in the evenings make use of this..
Most of the toilets are either long drops or a "like a squat toilet" OKAYYY... i guess it was not that bad but some places you really need to wonder if there is a direct connection to hell in there..
For me getting used to squatting while doing my toilet business was hard as i had already done my exercise for the day, now toilet needed exercising this took a while to get used to..
We walked a total of 21 days...After Namche your walks are shorter but a bit harder to breathe.
Starting from Jiri definitely helped with acclimatizing, we did have very tiny-insy minor headaches like once or twice but nothing severe..Otherwise no health issues maybe a bit sore all over the first 2 days..
we choose April to May - (Summer / beginning of monsoon Season)
After Namche Bazar we had a "warm bucket" bath every 3 days..
Below is what we carried (per person)
Hubby brought his gear from Brisbane, i bought all my gear from Kathmandu including my down jacket.
If you have it in your head that you will get crap stuff then you rather buy your gear from your home country.
2 Thermal tops each - 1 for day ( after phortse Thenga, second one to sleep in)
1 Thermal pant -(used to sleep only) used after Namche Bazar, No thermal pant while walking did not need.
3 T shirts - (quick dry best) wear each one at least 2 - 3 times ( Yess it smells, you get used to it)
2 zip pants
1 rain jacket or poncho whatever works
4 pairs of socks - 1 to sleep in rest all walking. (3 woolen blend socks, 1 cotton)
1 down jacket in - for the evenings
1 fleece jacket for walking
1 Trekking boots - which i wore
1 slippers - we shared as my small feet in my hubby's huge slippers.
Undies - i carried 6, but hubby had around 8 - 10 i am not sure actually...
We carried basic medication - painkillers, tummy trouble and anti histamine(hubby) and altitude sickness
miniature first aid kit, tiger balm or local Moov worked wonders too :P
nail clipper
headlamp
4 1 liter bottle empty bottles in which we would filter water with the Steri pen - buy in Kathmandu from a good store.
Muesli bars, chocolate bars, home comforts, lollies but keep it to a minimum (a snickers bar costs around 300 rupees up in the mountains so if you are willing to spend then no hassles)
Small, soap, shampoo ( i can live without conditioner for some days)
1 camera. i took my SLR which was heavy but worth the results. (charging varies from 300 to 700 rupees)
I took my 3 year old camera i charged it only once at Namche.
Sleeping bag - ours had a comfort rating of - 2 ( a bit too hot in the lower regions)
sunglasses
Scarf, Bennie, gloves, cap
Get liners for your bags in Kathmandu as it does rain this season and wet down gear would be a bad idea
If you are two bargain, say you both will charge or have a shower what is the best price??
Toilet tissue - i learnt origami trying to save toilet tissue :P
Pads and tampons available for around 150 - 300 rupees at Kathmandu and a bit more pricey at Namche
Carry a small journal if you really need to write and a light book not an encyclopedia...
To make sure you get a good night sleep choose a lodge that is less crowded. If you are like me you prefer your poo to go swimming in a clean environment, then check the toilets first, then the room, then the menu and then say yes or no to the lodge.You can also go to different lodges check out the best one and then crash, this really helps especially if you are hard up on cash.
Many of the travelers we met were travelling for 5 - 6 months prior so stretching their money was important. Nepali people are awesome and especially before Namche they will go all out to make your stay comfortable. The Jiri to Namche trek sees a lot less people because of the Lukla airport so everyone coming through this trek is treated well. Then you get to Namche and you are just another face : (
I do not want to tell you everything as some surprises are better left for you to figure out. If you want to be in control of the situation know everything you need to relax and let the trip take its course..
I cannot tell you how beautiful this trek is.. the views are to die for, you will see for yourself ..but really do not die ( okay that was a bad one)......
It thought me to start living self sufficient, the women on the mountain really inspired me as they manage the whole house and the lodges. The men are either guides or porters working somewhere else..
Mountain life is really hard so respect the people.. They might not speak your language that does not mean they are less respectable. (all lodge owners speak some sort of English or obvious sign language works too)
The household pets are fluffy and cute and you get cuddles from the kids who are chubby with red cheeks : )
On the whole the 3 weeks were Amazeeeee Balllllssssssssssssssssssssss and a expereince i will never forget as my fear of heights was pushed to the extreme..
If you have any questions ill try my best to help you out...
I wish you all the best on your journey i hope it was as refreshing for your soul as it was for mine...
OM MANI PADME HUM
Hubby and me halfway through Renjola pass- Gokyo Circuit...
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